Some engine builders use blue Loctite on the stud end that goes into the block. Do NOT use Loctite on the nuts for the head studs or main studs. Always ensure that the threads are clean prior to applying any lube. When using Loctite, make sure you assemble the parts before the Loctite cures. We spent two years developing ARP Ultra-Torque and we have come up with what we believe to be the ultimate fastener lubricant.
All of our torque values are based on using Ultra-Torque. We do not provide torque values for use with any other fastener assembly lubricant such as motor oil, moly lube, etc. Use these other lubes at your own risk, as their use may lead to a part or engine failure, for which we are not responsible. If the studs protrude into a water jacket, you will need to clean the threads in the block to remove all coolant and oil residue.
Apply a liberal amount of ARP thread sealer or a high temperature thread sealer. As long as the fasteners have been installed and torqued correctly, and show no visible signs of damage, they can be re-used. If they show any signs of thread galling or corrosion, they should be replaced. In the case of rod bolts, if any of them have taken a permanent set and have stretched by. See page 29 in the catalog for more detailed information on this critical measurement.
After test fitting the studs in the block, it is generally easier to remove the studs, put the head gasket and head on the block and install the studs. This will reduce the possibility of damaging the upper threads of the stud and scraping the cylinder mounting holes. If the block has no alignment dowel pins, you can use the stud to align the gasket and head.
The chamfered side of the washer goes up, towards the head of the bolt. The chamfer is there to create clearance for the radius between the bolt shank and the bolt head. Yes, cylinder head studs are installed only hand tight. Other than the use of an allen wrench on the hex broached into the end of the stud to ease installation, not to apply torque , use no tools to seat them in the block.
However, it is extremely important to ensure that the studs are fully bottomed out in the hole in the block and not hung up on damaged or corroded threads in the block preventing the stud from being fully seated.
This is often indicated when the stud threads extend past the deck surface. I have heard that some people have had trouble with newly installed cylinder head studs leaking water. Prior to installing your new head studs, it is very important that you have clean threads on both the block and the studs. First, clean up all the threads in the block with a thread-cleaning chaser, NOT a regular tap. Thread chasers are designed so that they do not remove material from threads but merely remove debris and corrosion.
Make sure you go all the way to the end of the threads in the bottom of the hole. Then clean out all the holes in the block with brake or carburetor cleaner to remove all the debris. Make sure the threads on the new studs are clean. Use a liberal amount of ARP thread sealer, high temp silicone or Loctite to ensure that there will be no air pockets that can cause leaks.
Then follow the ARP instructions for installing the fasteners. Sometimes ARP will recommend using torque specifications that are different than the manufacturer, but not always. To achieve our target clamp load, it may be necessary to use a different torque figure than what the factory calls out. Which specification do I use? Custom Age is an austenitic alloy that has a tensile strength of , PSI, providing a greater clamping force than that of ARP Like most high-strength quench and temper steels, L19 requires special care to avoid hydrogen embrittlement or stress corrosion.
ARP is made to last. I wouldn't hesitate to use them if you had the proper lube and everything. ARP's site specifically talks about the strength and "flex" in their studs.
The ARP studs are not torque to yeid bolts like the factory. Factory head bolts are a one use only. ARP's can be reused. On Rod bolts you can use a stretch gauge to torque them that is really the most reliable way. On the head studs you torque to factory specs. If you dont believe me look at the Arp site or just send them to me and I'll use them. Defiant DSM Wiseman. Click to expand Defiant said:.
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